Thursday, September 29, 2011

Not a Dichotomy

From the top of the lomas you can hear a constant hum like a swarm of mosquitoes during summer or like feedback from a static-prone microphone. It is always in the background. At times the noise seems deafening, overbearing and even annoying because you can't escape it. Other times, it fades into the background as your mind focuses on the burrowing owl perched on the rock or the white begonias rising out of the crevices. As I hike miles around these biological islands my initial response is either to ignore or to become annoyed by the honking, loud music, and tire squeals that breaks the natural hum of chattering birds and buzzing bees. Similarly, my natural reaction when I look down over the thousands of casitas enshrouded in a dirty brown haze of contamination and smog is to feel unsettled and even sometimes angry. This "city" and center of hustle and bustle seems so absurdly different from the lomas' nearly invisible trail which takes its pilgrims through fields of wildflowers and up verdant slopes. 

While I think some of these reactions are justified, there is a danger here if we create a dichotomy of place and space - that is to believe that to be in the "wilderness" an purely idyllic existence and to be in the "city" is rather uncouth. Interestingly enough, I am sure there are many people that would reverse those descriptions quite readily. However, I think a Biblical perspective forces us to look as the New Jerusalem as a place when man and the rest of creation live in a restored and harmonious existence. The perceived tension and conflict between these two "worlds" is eliminated because our relationships are perfected through Jesus' reconciliatory work on the cross. All of the created order is free to worship their Creator together unhindered by sin and brokenness. In this we see the end of the story which gives us hope to faithfully pursue his Kingdom in the present. And, I think there are lessons to be learned here for both the city-dweller and those of us who are more prone to prefer "no-man's land" because we cannot escape each other :)  In fact, I think Jesus knew what he was talking about when he said being a disciple meant BOTH loving our neighbor and keeping and serving his creation. 

We need to serve God by keeping his earth. The lomas for example, are not just full of animals, plants, and birds but are home to the Peruvian Desert Fox, the Tabaco tree and the Mountain Parakeet. Each species has a name with its own unique preferences for habitat and food. Together they make up a complex web of life which was created to have its own natural ebb and flow. While humans are a part of this creation, they are also set apart for the purpose of serving and keeping the creation which God had declared good and valuable. There is a responsibility involved here that unfortunately we haven't always fulfilled. Although "the high mountains belong to the wild goats" as the psalmist says in Psalm 104, we also have the opportunity to simply enjoy the world Jesus has made by truly understanding and appreciating its diversity. And, trust me, the more you learn to appreciate creation, the more you will want to protect it - not just because it is full of marvels but also because it is an act of worship and obedience to its Creator. You might also begin to realize how inextricably linked your existence is to the natural world. Next time you sit down to eat your dinner or drive your car to the store, think about where all of this "stuff" came from. It all had to come from somewhere (and I don't mean the shelf) and it is all going somewhere whether to the landfill, the atmosphere, or, as is common here, the street. Ultimately, protecting creation forces us to confront own role in over-consumption, environmental destruction, and waste which harms people and the whole created order. 

We need to serve God by loving his people. This brings me back to the beginning of this post. If you listen carefully to the constant drone of the city, the sounds become a little more distinguishable. There is the honking of the convis as they wildly weave their way through the crowded streets. There is the swooning of the Peruvian men when an unfortunate gringa tries to make her way though the the market. There is the chorus of barking dogs who let you know that you are not welcome in their territory. There are the cries of women who have been beat by their abusive and machismo husbands. But, there are also the voices of the faithful singing praises to their God, the laughter of a little child playing peek-a-boo with a new friend, and the sizzling of cheese-filled taquenos on the kitchen stove. I have heard all of these sounds and am more keenly of the beauty and brokenness of the City of Lima. Attached to these sounds are faces, names, stories and context. The city provides an opportunity for community and for people to be in relationship. It is a place where both the best and worst of man is somehow boldly exposed. 

But just as we need Jesus to help us restore a right relationship with creation, we also need his help to heal our relationships with each other. We are called to confront systems of injustice, poverty, and neglect because they are not part of the kingdom of God. As we slowly begin to pour out compassion for those who are in greatest need, we will realize our own faults, our own contribution to the warped economic and social systems which fuel these problems and that loving people and taking care of Creation are systematically and intricately connected.  And, since more than 60% of the world's population now lives in cities, it seems like we will increasingly have to figure out how to do live out this dual mandate in an urban context. The loma ecosystems and the surrounding communities epitomizes this challenge for me. 

The video is a panorama view from the top of the lomas of Villa Maria. 
If you listen, you can hear both birds chirping on the hills and cars down in the valley. 







Saturday, September 17, 2011

The Biological Island

I want to try and tell you about a trip I took to the Lomas in Villa Maria last weekend. Pictures don't really capture the beauty and brokenness of this place but I left these lomas feeling a strong pull to work here during the next few months. That works out well since Jose Luis and I have plans to visit this Loma, and one very similar to it, 6 times before Dr. Toly comes for my Advisory Visit in mid-October. 


Hiking around Villa Maria was an adventure. We ended up climbing 1,600ft in elevation on the one super sunny (and hot) day of the month and I am not sure exactly how much ground we covered but rest assured that our guide found the most obscure and steep pathways for us to climb. Additionally, while we were only supposed to spend three hours scoping out the land, we were gone for six hours and nearly hiked the entire perimeter of this "biological island." It was great exercise though! 


Jose Luis says that this ecosystem seems to be on the verge of no recovery and when you compare it to the lush, healthy, and protected lomas of Lachay, you realize how much stress and destruction it has undergone. These particular lomas could be considered an "island" biologically because other than a few of the bird species, much of the wildlife cannot travel to other lomas to mix-up their gene pool. On top of the ecological challenges, there is the basic fact that people are living in the lomas. Some of the most impoverished communities have started to build their small homes up on the top of the slopes instead of in the valley because of urban sprawl and because the land is cheaper. Most of these people have no basic services such as water or electricity and do not even own a land title. As you can imagine, any successful conservation project here would require a very comprehensive approach involving the communities, municipalities, outside organizations, and biological management. 

Well, that being said, I think we should go on a hike! Please remember to wear good shoes and to bring enough water - you never know where this guide might take you....
This is one of the valley communities in Villa Maria. We will take our taxi
to the end of this street and then find our "path" into the lomas.
Look - it is a coati! While he "belongs" to one of the men in the town,
he does not belong here in the lomas. He would be much happier in the jungle.
Wish we could smuggle him out with us... 
Up we go in the hills. We will probably have to stop multiple
times for the man in the red shirt. He has identified himself
as a "tourist" and takes photos at every turn.
Our guide just said that this is one of the guardians
of the lomas - can you see his face??
Wow, check out the hillside! All the purple is wildflowers.
Let's take a breather (because we just climbed a
virtually vertical slope) and enjoy the view. The guide
says that this is an especially wet season and that
often the hills are not this green. Lucky us!
We just reached the top of the ridge and found this! Is that
a road!? Are those houses on the hillside? Yep. The guide
says that these people have built their homes here without
permission but it was probably the only place they could afford.  
Wait, are those small square buildings dotting the
 hillside really houses? Yes. Let's keep walking along this
pathway - there seems to be a great lookout point ahead... 
OH NO!!! Can it be? More houses. Why, it is practically
 a city! Imagine that. I wonder what this means for
the future of the lomas?
Ah there I am - thanks for taking my photo.
Remind me not to wear so many layers next
time. With so little cloud cover up here I am
burning up!
Pretty right? Beware of these little yellow flowers.
They are Ortiga Negra and if you brush up against them,
you will get thousands of tiny prickers in your clothes
and your skin. And, it will burn for a few minutes. I
may be speaking from experience here...
Don't move! Its a Lagartija de Lomas - he really likes
the rocky zones here. 
What's that? You want to walk on that sandy road
way over there? Okay, if you insist...
Hmm I think it is even hotter up here...
The guide just said this is an illegal road. It is also
pretty destructive to the lomas. Wonder how
they got away with that?
This is probably one of the wettest areas of the lomas
when there is substantial fog. It is also a prime habitat for
small mammals. 
Wow, you really like to take the long road don't you?
We seemed to have slowly transitioned from
green vegetation back into the desert. 
Look there are even cactus here! Jose Luis says that
the majority of the vegetation usually occurs on the slopes facing
southwest due to the direction the trade winds blow the fog
here from the ocean.  The GPS says we are at 3,100ft!  
Okay, this is probably not the best time to take my
picture considering we are trying to make our descent
down these unstable slopes.
But, sure, I will smile for the camera. I mean, I am having fun!
Aren't you!? 
Alright, down we go. Just find a couple of footholds for
your boots and you will be just fine. You did bring
boots like I told you, right? 
This is our guide and that is Villa Maria behind him
just in case you forgot where we were headed.
I know you are probably hungry because we didn't
really eat lunch and it is almost 5pm but, don't worry
- only another hour or two to go!
I mean who thinks about being hungry when
this is their view.  
Trust me, the best way to get down is to slide like you
were skiing. 
Nice job! We made it back to the road. Now we
will just have to walk until we run into a taxi.

Nice find! A taxi chollo. He will take us into town
were we can find another taxi back to Matellini.



No, you're right, he doesn't belong here either. He would
much prefer the Andes Mts where it is cooler.
One final look at the lomas as we leave Villa Maria.
What did you think of our hike?




Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Las Lomas and their Impoverished Neighbors

Much of my time here in Peru will be marked by my work with A Rocha Peru. A Rocha is an Christian international conservation organization which is now present it 19 different countries around the world. As a student at Wheaton, I was actively involved in our student chapter of the organization and affirmed its mission to study and steward creation as a response to our Biblical mandate to "keep and serve" and earth in Genesis 2:15. While each chapter is united under the same mission,  the work each one does is different depending on their cultural and ecological context. Here in Lima, we are working to develop a project in "Las Lomas" surrounding the city and stretching along the coast. 


What is a loma? Literally translated, a "loma" is a hill. These hills, however, are a unique ecosystem which is borne out of the trade winds which bring mist from the Pacific ocean to the tops of these hills where it hangs from June to November. During these winter months, the mist provides an abundant supply of water to the area and creates a landscape of lush vegetation and a habitat for birds, mammals  reptiles, and amphibians. Some of these species are endemic, meaning they can only be found here in these ecosystems. Considering that Lima lies along the dry desert coast, these lomas provide a haven for life which would otherwise not exist.


Since the time of Spanish colonialism, the lomas have undergone significant stress and destruction. Overgrazing by goats and cattle, invasive species, and climate change are just some of the threats which are isolating the remaining lomas habitat and undermining its ecological integrity. Therefore, one aspect of A Rocha's conservation project, is to determine the current state of the lomas in order to deduce what kind of management actions should be taken to restore these ecosystems. A Rocha Peru has biologists which are working on this now and part of my job is to go out with Jose Luis to assist him with biological analysis.


This, however, is not the full story of the lomas, nor can biological integrity be the only focus of a successful conservation project. As your eyes travel down the slopes of the hills you see the green slowly transform into a dusty brown. Clinging precariously to the hillside are thousands of rugged shacks made from whatever material their tenets could find. These slum communities are some of the most impoverished in Lima and the problems which plague these people are deeply systemic. As urban sprawl continues, these communities will build homes higher and higher up the hills. They have little to no fresh water due to contamination and patchy support from the municipalities. 


This reality begs me to ask how our conservation project in the Lomas will benefit these people? How can a healthy ecosystem promote a healthy community? How can these people be involved in the project in a way which both empowers them and gives them ownership of its protection? Without this relationship, I fear the long term goals of our conservation efforts will go unmet. The lomas will continue to be destroyed and the conditions of the communities around them will go unchanged. Neither of these outcomes reflect the hope of reconciliation and redemption which Jesus brings to his entire created order. 


Although A Rocha Peru is primarily a team of dedicated biologists, they too recognize the importance of identifying the socio-political barriers to restoring the lomas. And, since I am here with a willingness to serve wherever A Rocha needs me to, I get to throw my hat in the ring with the bull. I get to tackle this problem. Obviously there are more connections and intricacies involved here than four months could even begin to process. However, I think the opportunity for me to ask questions, identify relationships and look at the project through a fresh lens, will ultimately be helpful to A Rocha Peru as they carry on this work long after I am gone.


The day to day aspect of my work is a little ambiguous. Each day is different. Over the next month I will be traveling to some lomas along the coast, going on environmental education field trips with Amparo, and working to form a more succinct plan for my Socio-Political Independent Study. The rest of my time is happily spent cooking with my family, learning to navigate the transportation system and picking up Peruvian slang. 


I'd say I need to keep learning to be patient as I have the tendency to want to go all the time instead of just learning to be. When you spend your life running through each day just to get to the next one, you miss out of the beauty of the present. And it is in the present where you are shaped and equipped to be a disciple. It is in the daily conversations and interactions with others that you realize life is too precious to wish away on thoughts of something "more important" in the future. Yes there is a metanarrative going on, a master plan which we are amazingly a part of and which gives our lives greater purpose.  But, I think the outworking of that narrative is in the day to day aspects of life. And, for a big picture thinker like me, this is sometimes easy to forget. 


So, rejoice in the hardships and blessings of the day because God is using them as much in the present as he is to shape you for some "other" purpose in the future. 


A chicken farm at the base of the Lomas

The typical mist at 400 meters 


Zapatita de Bebe - Baby's Shoe

Teaching the students about the birds in the Lomas